Are your raised beds really that easy to assemble?
Yes! Actually, it's hard to imagine an easier design. You just stack the boards so the ends interlock and insert the pins to lock the boards together. Repeat for each layer to build the height of the planter.
Raised beds eight feet and longer include flat aluminum crossbars to prevent the sides from bowing; to assemble, place crossbars over pins between board sections. Diagram instructions and set up tips are included with every order.
Do I need any tools or equipment to set up the raised beds?
No tools are required to assemble the beds. However, it is important to level the ground before setting up your raised beds, which might require some digging, with shovel or hoe, etc. You might also need a hammer (or nearby rock) to stake pins flush with the top of the planter, assuming they aren't used for the cold frame option. Shorter pins, to match the height of the raised bed, are also available if you would rather forgo the option.
Raised beds can be set up on lawn.
Can raised beds be set up on lawn? How about decks, patios and driveways, etc?
Raised beds can be set up directly on lawn with little or no preparation. Eleven inch and taller beds are usually deep enough to smother buried grass before it can reach the surface—all that is needed, in this case, is to level the planting site. Some rhizomic weeds and grasses, however, can surface through very deep soil. To be on the safe side, cover the ground with a layer of cardboard or thick newspaper before filling the beds with soil. The paper will break down over time, along with the grass beneath it, and eventually become compost for your garden.
To set up beds on nonabsorbent surfaces, like concrete or heavily compacted dirt, e.g. driveways, add 1-3 inches (or more for deeper beds) of loose gravel, or similar material, to the bottom of the planter before filling it with soil. This helps with soil drainage required for a healthy garden. See this article for additional tips on improving soil conditions.
How tall should the raised beds be? What are the advantages of deeper beds?
The best choice of bed height depends on your gardening goals, personal preference and budget. There are two main benefits to taller beds—greater root space and improved accessibility. Taller beds provide more root space, which generally translates into healthier plants and a more productive vegetable garden. Some plants, like salad greens, herbs and alliums (onions, garlic, chives, etc.) have relatively shallow root systems, in which case a bed height of 5.5"-11" is often sufficient. For deep rooted plants, like tomatoes, beans, squash, and potatoes, a bed depth of at least 11"-16.5" is recommended. It is a good idea to loosen the ground beneath the planters to improve drainage and aeration before filling the beds with soil.
The other main benefit of taller beds is improved accessibility for people who have difficulty (or just want to minimize the need for) kneeling and bending over. Raised beds 22" or taller are recommended for wheelchair access. Tall beds also make a convenient place for sitting while tending to your garden. Remember to space beds wide enough (about 36") to accommodate any mobility aids on paths between and around the beds. For more information, see this article on accessible gardening.
Can I add height later if I decide that I want taller beds?
Yes! One of the advantages of our kit design is that layers can be easily added to increase the height of existing beds. If you set up a 4'x8'x11" raised bed this year, for example, and decide next spring that you need more height, simply purchase another 4'x8'x5.5" (or taller) raised bed and assemble it on top of the old one. The pins stake down into the layer below, locking the beds together.
Are more raised bed sizes available? Can I get a custom size bed?
We offer custom size raised beds to meet your specific needs. This includes custom lengths and widths, as well as unusual shapes, like L-shaped and U-shaped beds (great for wheelchair access). There are, however, a few practical limitations. Specifically, the bed height must be a multiple of 5.5" (11", 16.5", 22" etc.) and the corners of the planter must be at right angles (90°). Prices are calculated by the linear foot with a small processing fee that varies by order. Delivery times also depend on the order and can sometimes be delayed during rush season, i.e. February through May. It may take up to 4-6 weeks for custom bed delivery—although the majority of orders ship much sooner. For more information, or to place a custom order, please call (541) 488-0838.
What kind of wood are the raised beds made of?
Raised beds are made from untreated, kiln-dried Port Orford cedar—the strongest of all cedars, as strong as Doug Fir and more rot-resistant than Redwood. Port Orford cedar (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana, also known as Lawson cypress) is fragrant, light-colored wood with even texture and strong natural oils that help protect against moisture and microorganisms. It really is extraordinary wood, perfect for long-lasting raised beds.
Economy-grade examples (front sides)
Economy-grade examples (back sides)
See larger photos.
What is the difference between the regular and economy-grade beds?
Economy-grade raised beds are an affordable option for gardeners who are less concerned with appearance than with getting the most beds for the buck. They are made from the same long-lasting Port Orford cedar as our standard beds, but allow for limited "defects" in the wood, e.g. large knots, waned edges, rough spots, etc. that are mainly cosmetic and have little to no effect on the durability of the planter. In most cases the defects are on one side of the board only; so that, assembled with the "good" sides facing out, they look about the same as our standard raised beds.
Economy-grade raised beds are available in all standard and custom bed sizes for about 15% off our regular prices. For more information or to place an order, please call (541) 488-0838.
Risk of in-ground wood decay.
Figure by Scheffer, T.C. and J.J. Morrell, Forest Research Laboratory.1
How long will the wood last?
The durability of the wood depends largely on the climate and the relative risk of decay for your region (see right).
For low to medium risk areas we estimate a life span of 30-40 years. Higher risk regions will likely see a few years reduction; but then, it's the wettest climates that will benefit most from the exceptional decay-resistance of Port Orford cedar—rated "resistant" to "very resistant" (highest rating) in a survey of 1500 wood species by the Forest Research Laboratory at Oregon State University.
Is the wood treated with anything? Do you recommend a protective finish?
The wood is kiln-dried to minimize checks and wrapping, but otherwise untreated. And while applying a protective finish might make it last longer, most of our customers avoid the trouble, relying instead on the natural rot-resistance of Port Orford cedar (see above).
Note that Port Orford cedar, with its natural waxy resins, is moisture-resistant enough to repel most water-based finishes. Use an oil-based paint or stain—or nothing at all, it is as though they're already finished!
Flexible piping supports cold frame or shade cloth covering.
How do I make a cold frame or shade cloth covering for my raised beds?
Building a simple cold frame or shade cloth covering is easy: take a length of flexible pipe (1/2" PVC works well and is cheap at the hardware store) and cut it into equal length pieces so that, bent to fit over the ends of the pins, they form arches of appropriate height. For example, in the picture to the right a 20' pipe was cut in half to make two 4' tall supports for a 4' wide raised bed. The exact height doesn't matter, as long as there's room for plants to grow. Attach pipes over pins the length of the bed and cover the structure with your choice of material (there are many options—ask your local garden center for advice). Roll-up or trim away excess material and weigh down the edges with dirt or rocks. Use as needed, e.g. early spring or late fall, then take down and store away for next season.
How can I keep pests (deer, birds, rodents, snails, etc.) out of my raised beds?
This is a big question that you might want to take up with Google! But in general, gardening with raised beds makes pest control a whole lot easier. To keep out birds and deer, for example, try building a simple pipe frame (described above) and covering the structure with protective netting. For burrowing pests like gophers, lay down ½" hardware cloth beneath the bed, so that it wraps an inch or two around the sides of the planter, then secure in place with nails or staples. Slugs and snails can be avoided by wrapping copper tape (found online and at most garden centers) around the perimeter of your raised beds.
Are raised beds difficult to take apart once they've been up awhile?
Disassembly is generally no problem, even after years of use. Unlike most raised beds, there are no screws or nails to strip or break and the aluminum pins won't rust in place. Start with the top layer and work your way down the bed, lifting boards straight up and over the pins. Keep in mind that, after long periods of time, the soil in the beds may be stuck to the sides, and need loosening or removal before disassembly. It is also a good idea to wait for the planter to dry, as wet wood swells and can tighten around pins.
Have more questions? We are here to help! Please call (541) 488-0838, 8AM-6PM Pacific Standard Time, seven days a week, or you can always
